If the soil has lots of earthworms, then your lawn is healthy and vibrant.

If there are very few earthworms, it means one of two things… Either your soil is so nutrient poor that earthworms can’t survive, or pesticides have killed most of them.

Practicing natural, organic gardening lawn care can alleviate both of these problems. If you want a healthy green lawn that is earthworm-friendly, just follow these easy organic gardening lawn care basics:

Monitor the soil’s pH factor…

The whole focus of natural lawn care is soil health… starting with the soil’s pH. The perfect pH for lawn soil is between 6.5 and 7.0. This makes it slightly acidic. After conditioning the soil with natural, organic compost, check its pH. If the soil is not acidic enough, add sulfur. If it’s too acidic, add lime.

Soil testing is simple enough to do by yourself. All you need is one of the pH tester packs available at local nurseries or lawn care stores… costing about $40 to $60. Or, you could have the soil tested professionally.

Select a locally adapted grass variety…

Grasses vary in their climate preferences, drought tolerances, nutrient requirements, shade tolerances, and usage tolerances. Choose a grass variety that bests suits your locality and your individual needs from one of the following two types:

Cool season grass… These grasses were developed specifically for northern climates, and are usually planted in early fall, or in the spring when soil temperatures reach 50F.

Warm season grass… These grasses were developed for southern climates exclusively, and require soil temperatures of 70F. They are NOT winter hardy in the north.

Since the earthworms in your locality are already acclimated to local varieties, it only makes sense to select these grass varieties… or at least varieties developed to survive in your climate.

If you need help, ask your local garden center or county agricultural extension to recommend a grass variety that has adapted the best to your area.

Mow long…

Here’s a natural lawn care tip… most turf grass species are at their healthiest when kept between 2.5″ and 3.5″ tall. You may have to mow a bit more often (depending on the weather), but the result is a healthier (read that as less expensive) lawn.

If you cut any shorter than 2.5″, surface roots may be exposed, dry out, and die. Your lawn will not be able to retain moisture… you will have to water more often.

And, earthworms will not have the nutrients they need to benefit your lawn. So… mow long and save money!

Water deep…

Thorough, deep watering encourages deep root systems, which strengthen your lawn’s drought tolerance. Still, it is just as important to let it dry out between waterings.

If the grass color becomes dull or footprints stay compressed for more than 5 seconds, then it’s time to water. Better yet, follow a regular watering schedule of around 1″ per week… that’s watering 1″, once a week. Make sure to deduct any rainfall during the week from this 1″ requirement. (The weekly watering will be for the balance remaining after any rainfall.)

Here’s an easy way measure 1″ of watering…  Just put a rain gauge or empty tuna or cat food can on your lawn each time you water it. When the needed amount of water has accumulated in the gauge or the can, then you can be sure the lawn has received the required weekly one inch of water.

Practicing organic gardening lawn care and maintenance will reduce your dependence on earthworm-killing chemical fertilizers and pest controls.

Natural, organic gardening lawn care produces a healthy lawn that is naturally resistant to weeds, insects, and diseases… and full of those wonderfully wiggly earthworms!

Susan Nelson Hopkins is a reformed gardener and lawn lover. She is resigned to the inescapable fact that we all must conserve water and do our part to protect the environment. But she has learned that this doesn’t preclude lovely, healthy gardens… and lawns. Her tip… less is more! Check out the rest of Susan’s Lawn Gardens. She is also webmaster of Susan’s Bird Gardens and several more gardening sites and blogs.

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There is nothing quite so delicious as cool, green grass under bare feet. Can you design a lawn so this is no longer just a remembered sensation?

Absolutely! Just follow these 4 easy steps…

Step 1: Design your lawn garden…

First of all, thinking “lawn garden” instead of just “lawn” will help you come up with the right design. It’s also much easier to accomplish this before putting the lawn in.

But it’s not impossible to get it right, even after the fact. Executing your design will just take a bit more effort.

Decide how many flower beds you want, where to plant trees and shrubs, whether you want a pond, where the sidewalks and other paths will be, whether to include a fence, a trellis, or even a bridge…

Now, consider the care and maintenance of each of these in relation to the lawn. Will one interfere with the other? Make adjustments now to save problems later while you’re trying to mow…

Here’s a tip to determine the best shape and layout for your lawn… Develop a layout for your lawn that will allow you to mow without stopping or backing up. Avoid sharp curves and corners. Also, remember that borders make mowing quicker.

Step 2: Choose the right grass variety for your lawn…

Ask the local agricultural extension service in your area for a guide on local grass varieties. Choose one of them, or a close match.

Keep in mind that most varieties fall within these two regional categories:

Cool season grass…

This type is usually planted in early fall, or in the spring when soil temperatures reach 50F. These grasses were developed specifically for northern climates. Included are Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, and ryegrass.

Warm season grass…

This type requires soil temperatures of 70F. These grasses are NOT winter hardy in the north… they were developed for southern climates exclusively. Included are Bermuda, St. Augustine, and zoysia.

Not sure which area? If you can’t figure out which region your local area is in, tall fescue could be the best variety for you. It’s known to grow in areas where the two regions merge.

Step 3: Test and condition your soil…

Determine what kind of soil you have… clay, loam, or sand. This will dictate how much conditioning your soil needs. A loamy (crumbly) soil is ideal for lawns.

Here’s a simple tip to tell if your soil is loamy or if it needs conditioning.

Squeeze a handful of moist soil. If it crumbles when poked or touched, then it’s loamy. If it sticks together and barely breaks apart (if at all) when touched, then it has too much clay. It has too much sand if it doesn’t hold its shape when squeezed.

A good rule of thumb (read that as “green” thumb) is to always condition soil. It helps maintain the right texture as well as provide trace elements. Just as important… it provides optimum habitats for earthworms and microbial organisms.

Determine the pH of your soil. The perfect pH for lawn soil is between 6.5 and 7.0… slightly acidic. If the soil is not acidic enough, you need to add sulfur. If it’s too acidic, add lime.

Step 4: Install sprinkler systems…

Design and select a lawn sprinkler system that will reach every part of your entire lawn garden, including flower beds, shrubs, and trees.

Keep in mind that some plants do better when their roots are watered instead of watering overhead. A drip system is a very effective solution here.

Be sure to automate the sprinkler systems so you can maintain a consistent schedule. Lawns require 1 inch of water applied once a week. (Although, in cases of extreme heat you may have to water every 3-5 days.) Monitor the rest of the plants to determine a schedule that meets their needs as well.

If you follow these four steps, you will have a “lawn garden” landscape design. A design that embraces your lawn as a garden – including lawn, shrubs, flowers, trees, paths… everything.

And since you designed it correctly, it will be user friendly!

Susan Nelson Hopkins is a reformed gardener and lawn lover. She is resigned to the inescapable fact that we all must conserve water and do our part to protect the environment. But she has learned that this doesn’t preclude lovely, healthy gardens… and lawns. Her tip… less is more! Check out the rest of Susan’s Lawn Gardens. She is also webmaster of Susan’s Bird Gardens and several more gardening sites and blogs.

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